Will we see whales?

We hear this question all the time. Whale-watching boats are popular attractions in New England, part of a broader trend in marine tourism that has gained popularity over the last 50 years.
Salem, of course, has a rich maritime history dating back to the colonial era, known primarily for its trading and privateering. But whaling was never a big part of the mix, at least until the 1830s, a time when Salem was struggling to reinvent itself after war and embargo had decimated its profitable maritime trade.
The Izette, Salem’s first vessel dedicated entirely to whaling, sailed from Salem in March of 1831. Under Captain Hoit, the Izette traveled to the South Atlantic before returning, a little over a year later, with 1600 barrels of oil.
With the success of the Izette, Salem’s whaling industry began to grow. In 1832, advertisements calling for young men willing to enlist in whaling voyages appeared in the Salem Gazette, and by July, four more whalers had sailed from Salem.
In 1837, the Salem Gazette reported that Salem’s whaling fleet was the sixth largest in America, with eighteen active whalers. However, after 1837, Salem’s whaling industry began to decline. The financial panic of 1837 made Salem businessmen less willing and able to invest in whaling. In the 1840s, a number of Salem’s whalers were destroyed at sea and, due to a lack of funds, they were never replaced. Salem businessmen began to invest in other industries – particularly in railroads and manufacturing – and the whaling business faded away.
In 1859, Edwin Drake drilled the world’s first oil well in Pennsylvania and, during the oil boom that followed, whale oil prices began to drop. Whales continued to be hunted, however. By 1900, bowhead, gray, and right whales were nearly extinct, and whaling declined. It revived with the invention of harpoons shot from cannons, explosive tips and factory ships. As each species was reduced to the point where it was hard to find, whalers moved on to the next species, catching blue whales, fin whales, sperm whales, sei whales and minke whales in sequence.
In 1931, 27 countries signed the first convention for the regulation of whaling. This began a long, stop-and-start process in which quotas and seasons were established, modified, and often ignored. Whales are still hunted today.
The Evolution of Whale Watching
Along with the efforts to limit whaling came an increased interest in whales, whale-watching and environmental tourism. The first organized commercial whale-watching tour is often attributed to Cheryl Szatko, who started offering tours to see grey whales off the coast of California in 1956.
Under Albert Avellar Jr. the schooner Hindu was instrumental in the establishment of the whale-watching industry in Provincetown, Massachusetts during the 1960s. Avellar benefitted from the presence of whales on nearby Stellwagen Bank to offer whale-watching under sail, which unfortunately is no longer available in New England thanks to the distances that must be covered.
Whale Watching in Salem
By the 1980s and 1990s whale-watching was well-established as a significant New England tourist attraction. Provincetown, Boston, Newburyport and especially Gloucester all offered trips. For several years, Salem visitors could go on whale watches aboard the Super Ranger, docked at Pickering Wharf, and as late as 2003 there were cruises aboard a smaller vessel, the Privateer IV.
Despite the number of tourists in Salem, the whale watching cruises struggled. Salem was further from the whales than other ports, which meant that whale watches from Salem often lasted four or five hours — more time than most visitors wished to commit. The long trips also meant higher fuel bills and lower profits for the boat operators.
Since 2003, there have been no whale-watching cruises out of Salem.
Boating Options in Salem
The importance of Salem’s maritime history is represented today by several other kinds of vessels.
The longest-running commercial vessel in Salem is the Schooner FAME of Salem (www.schoonerfame.com). Fame is a traditional wooden schooner, a replica of a successful privateer from the War of 1812. This business is a three-time winner of TripAdvisor’s “Best of the Best” award honoring the top 1% of attractions worldwide.
Fame is a 70’ schooner certified for 49 passengers, although only 32 tickets are sold for public sails. It is based at Pickering Wharf Marina right downtown. Drinks and snacks are available for sale on board. The captain and crew, all locals who are great resources for those visiting the area, talk about the history of Salem and of the original Fame, which captured the first prizes of the War of 1812. The cruise concludes with the firing of the cannon.
There are other sailing tours from Salem (www.SunsetSailSalem.com), although these boats are not based in Salem year-round and have no particular historical connection to Salem. They are docked ¾ of a mile from downtown Salem at Blaney Street, near the Power Plant.
Closer to the downtown attractions, there is Mahi Cruises (www.Mahicruises.com), which operates a small fleet of motorized vessels. They offer a variety of tours of Salem Sound including live music events on their larger vessel, the Hannah Glover. The Glover is the largest commercial vessel in the harbor.
In recent years, Tiki Boats Salem (https://tikihutboats.com) has two small “tiki boats” for up to six passengers at a time. These quaint-looking rafts are restricted to the harbor but offer a variety of custom tiki cocktails and have proved quite popular.
Finally, the landing craft Naumkeag is operated by Essex Heritage, and takes visitors out to Baker’s Island on Fridays and Sundays (www.bakersislandlight.org). Naumkeag also visits Misery Island during the summer months, and offers occasional historical and narrated tours.
The large replica tall ship operated by the National Park Service, the Friendship (www.nps.gov/places/friendship-of-salem.htm), does not offer sails, but is open to visitors. Friendship is a 171-foot replica of a 1797 East Indiaman. It was built in 2000 in the Scarano Brothers Shipyard in Albany, New York.
Whale Watching in Essex County
Cape Ann Whale Watch, Gloucester: https://www.seethewhales.com/
Seven Seas Whale Watch, Gloucester: https://www.7seaswhalewatch.com/
Newburyport Whale Watch, Newburyport: https://www.newburyportwhalewatch.com/
Whale Watching in Massachusetts
New England Aquarium, Boston: https://www.cityexperiences.com/boston/city-cruises/whale-watch/
Dolphin Fleet, Provincetown: https://whalewatch.com/
